You are currently viewing How Do You Charge a Heat Pump in the Winter Season?

How Do You Charge a Heat Pump in the Winter Season?

  • Post author:
  • Reading time:6 mins read

Winter in Mesa might not mean blizzards, but when nighttime temps dip into the 30s and 40s, your heat pump has to work hard to keep your home cozy. We’ve gotten calls from frustrated homeowners whose systems suddenly blow cool air or ice over – and more often than not, low refrigerant is part of the problem. The tricky part? Charging a heat pump in cold weather isn’t as straightforward as it is in summer, and getting it wrong can hurt efficiency or even damage the compressor.

Here at Comfort Experts, we’ve been keeping Mesa-area homes and businesses comfortable for years, and we’ve charged hundreds of heat pumps when the mercury is low. Today we’re walking you through exactly how it’s done safely and correctly – and why this is one job you really want a licensed tech handling.

You know that uneasy feeling when the heater just doesn’t feel right on a chilly Arizona morning? That’s usually when questions about refrigerant come up. Let’s fix that.

Why Is Charging a Heat Pump in Winter So Tricky?

Heat pumps flip the refrigeration cycle in heating mode: the outdoor coil becomes the evaporator (pulling what little heat it can from cold air), and the indoor coil acts as the condenser. When outdoor temperatures drop, system pressures fall too. That makes the usual summer charging methods – like relying heavily on subcooling – unreliable or downright inaccurate.

Honestly, we’ve seen techs (and unfortunately some homeowners) overcharge or undercharge systems because they tried using the same chart they use in July. The result? Poor heating, frozen coils, or compressor failure down the road. In cold weather, we have to use different techniques to get the charge just right.[1]


Signs Your Heat Pump Might Be Low on Refrigerant

Refrigeraent doesn’t just “get used up” – if levels are low, there’s almost always a leak somewhere. Here are the red flags we see most often in Mesa and the East Valley:

  • Blowing lukewarm air even when the thermostat is set high – the system runs constantly but never quite warms the house.
  • Ice buildup on the outdoor unit that keeps coming back after defrost cycles.
  • Hissing or bubbling noises near the lineset (a classic leak sound).
  • Higher than normal electric bills because the system works overtime.
  • Short cycling – turning on and off more frequently than usual.

If you’re noticing any of these, don’t wait for our mild winter to turn uncomfortable. A quick check now can prevent bigger repairs later.


Can Homeowners Charge a Heat Pump Themselves? (Short answer: No)

We get asked this a lot, especially by handy folks who recharge their car’s A/C without issue. Here’s the thing – handling refrigerant requires an EPA 608 certification, recovery equipment, and precision tools. One small mistake (like adding liquid refrigerant upside down) can slug the compressor and cost thousands to replace.

Plus, in Arizona, state law requires licensed contractors for anything involving refrigerant. It’s not worth the risk or potential fines. Let us handle it safely – we’ve got the gauges, scales, and experience to do it right the first time.[2]


How We Actually Charge a Heat Pump When It’s Cold Outside

There are a few proven methods we use when outdoor temps are below 65°F. Which one depends on the system (TXV vs. piston metering device) and exact conditions.

The superheat method we rely on most

In heating mode during winter, superheat becomes our primary guide – especially on systems with fixed metering devices. We measure the temperature difference between the suction line and the saturation temperature, aiming for the manufacturer’s target (usually 8–20°F depending on conditions).

When subcooling still works (and when it doesn’t)

On TXV systems, some manufacturers (Lennox, Trane, Goodman) provide low-ambient subcooling charts valid below 65°F. If your unit has one, we follow it exactly. Otherwise, subcooling alone can mislead you in cold weather.

Blocking airflow – yeah, it sounds odd but it works

For accurate charging when it’s really chilly, we sometimes partially block the outdoor unit’s discharge air with cardboard or a special restrictor. This safely raises head pressure to mimic summer conditions so we can use standard charging charts. It’s temporary and done carefully – never something to try at home.

We always weigh the final charge as a double-check. Precision matters.


Common Mistakes We See All the Time in Mesa

Let me share a quick table of what goes wrong versus what we do instead:

Common DIY/Pro Mistake Right Way (What We Do)
Using summer subcooling targets in winter Switch to superheat or manufacturer low-temp chart
Adding refrigerant without finding the leak first Electronic leak detection + repair before recharging
Charging liquid upside-down into suction line Vapor only through suction, bottle upright or warmed
Ignoring indoor airflow or dirty filters Verify 350–450 CFM per ton before final charge
Leaving without checking defrost operation Full functional test including defrost cycle

These little details make the difference between a system that limps along and one that runs perfectly all winter.


A Quick Comparison: Summer Charging vs. Winter Charging

  • Summer (cooling mode): Indoor coil = evaporator, outdoor = condenser. Easy subcooling method.
  • Winter (heating mode): Roles reverse. Lower pressures make subcooling unreliable → switch to superheat or special procedures.
  • Best practice year-round: Weigh-in after any major repair, then fine-tune with the correct method for the season.

That’s why twice-yearly maintenance is so valuable – we catch small leaks before they become big problems, no matter the season.

For more on keeping your system ready for Arizona’s cooler months, check our guide on preparing your heater and HVAC for an Arizona winter.


Preventing Refrigerant Problems Before They Start

The truth is, a properly installed and maintained heat pump rarely needs refrigerant added. Regular tune-ups catch line rubs, loose fittings, and vibration issues before they leak. We also check your heating maintenance tune-up items like coil cleanliness and airflow that affect charge stability.

If your business or commercial property in the East Valley relies on heat pumps, consistent service prevents expensive emergency calls when you need heat most.

Related: If you’re dealing with heat pump issues beyond refrigerant, see our heat pump repair services page.


Ready for Reliable Heat This Winter?

We’ve helped hundreds of Mesa, Gilbert, and East Valley families get their heat pumps running perfectly even on the coldest Arizona nights. If your system is showing any of the signs we mentioned – or if it’s just time for a check before the holidays – give us a call.

A quick diagnostic visit can tell us exactly whether you need a recharge, leak repair, or just a tune-up. We’ll explain everything in plain English and get you warm again fast.

Call us anytime at 480-207-1239 or schedule service online here. We’d love to help keep your home or business comfortable all winter long.

Sources

  1. HVAC.com – How to Charge a Heat Pump in the Winter
  2. U.S. Department of Energy – Air-Source Heat Pumps
  3. HVAC School – Checking the Charge on a Heat Pump in the Winter

Leave a Reply